Panerai, Urwerk, Girard Perragaux
This month, we’ve already seen some fairly wild watches hit the market. A. Lange & Söhne celebrated the Lange 1’s 30th birthday with four new additions, Omega re-released its first watch to ever go to space, and Patek Philippe rocked the watch world with its first new collection in 25 years. However that’s not all. A slew of manufacturers dropped some killer watches in October.
What appears to characterize this round-up is an emphasis on complexity (see Panerai, TAG Heuer and Urwerk) and avant-gardism (see Zenith, Girard-Perragaux, and Chopard). Predictably, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Vacheron Constantin have dropped time-and-date costume watches, the one really subdued members of the bunch. What this normal transfer towards extra daring design says concerning the finish of 2024 is that this continues to be an unsteady 12 months for watches, each financially and aesthetically. Patek’s Cubitus is downright divisive—jarring actually—and that sq. watches appears to embody the brand new tone of This autumn. However, again in April, we have been speaking about how subdued the releases have been at Watches & Wonders, particularly Rolex.
Will probably be attention-grabbing to see how the tip of the 12 months shapes up, and till subsequent month listed below are the most effective watches that dropped in October.
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Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion
Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei, the dynamic duo behind Urwerk, have turn out to be identified for his or her out of this world timepieces for the reason that model’s inception in 1997. Lots of their unconventional designs have been constructed across the model’s satellite tv for pc hours complication, which first debuted in 2003. Up to now 20 years, we’ve seen the mechanism take many kinds from a lightweight titanium version to a fully blinged out one boasting 400 diamonds to one with a small planetarium on the dial. Now, with the most recent incarnation of the satellite tv for pc hours, we get Urwerk’s most formidable evolution but. The brand new UR-150 Scorpion gives a reworked satellite tv for pc complication system changing the model’s traditional design primarily based on Maltese crosses with a cam system. The mannequin is out there in two restricted version variations (50 items every).
CHF 88,000 (roughly $102,000) – CHF 89,000 (roughly $103,000)
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Zenith Defy Skyline Ceramic Americas
Zenith’s Defy assortment traces its roots again to 1969, however the trendy interpretation of the traditional design didn’t come to life till 2017. From the second the mannequin re-entered the model’s catalog, it grew to become a platform for Zenith’s renewed emphasis on superior expertise and supplies. The primary mannequin to emerge beneath the brand new banner was the Defy El Primero 21, that includes Zenith’s signature high-beat 36,000 vph motion loaded with a separate gear practice for a 1/a hundredth chronograph operate working at 360,000 vph. Since then, we’ve seen the Defy in numerous permutations: skeletonized, revivals, gem set, tourbillons, and rainbow. The newest addition as soon as once more presents a singular design, particularly for the American market. It gives a light-weight ceramic construct that includes a putting two-tone dial with a sunray-finish in metallic inexperienced and gold.
$15,500
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H. Moser & Cie. x Massena LAB Endeavour Chronograph Compax
Each Moser and Massena LAB have turn out to be identified for his or her collaborations. Each manufacturers have teamed up with a various array of companions over time. We’ve seen Moser create mashups with everybody from streetwear brands to luxury menswear outposts. Massena LAB has additionally launched into its justifiable share of collabs, usually leaning extra firmly within the watch area with independents like Raúl Pagès and Sylvain Pinaud. In simply the previous couple months, each watchmakers unveiled some fairly stellar co-created timepieces: Moser with Studi0 Underdog and Massena LAB with newcomer Albishorn. It comes as no shock the duo would in the end discover their solution to teaming up collectively for the H. Moser & Cie. x Massena LAB Endeavour Chronograph Compax. Our personal digital watch editor Allen Farmelo spent a while test driving the model and the outcomes are in: it exceeds expectations.
$27,600
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Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 Titanium and Gold
Once you consider Girard-Perregaux, you probably conjure a picture of a mannequin like its beloved Laureato—a traditional luxurious sport watch born out of the period of the posh sport watch in 1975 that includes all of the hallmark options like an octagonal bezel and built-in bracelet. Up to now 49 years, we’ve seen GP adapt the mannequin in numerous iterations, from ones with tinted sapphire crystal cases to a green ceramic version designed in collaboration with the posh sports activities automobile producer Aston Martin. However earlier this 12 months, we noticed the model adapt the design in titanium for the primary time. Persevering with with that spirit, we now have one of many model’s extra unconventional fashions enter the catalog in the identical light-weight materials. That is the Casquette 2.0 Titanium and Gold. The Casquette additionally hails from the Seventies with a boxy case geared up with an modern black-and-red LED show at one finish that may present the hours, minutes, seconds, day and date on the press of a button. The unique mannequin solely had a brief run of simply two years however was revived again in 2022 with a bold matte black design. Now, we get a extra refined titanium model with 18-karat yellow gold accents.
$4,960
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Vacheron Constantin twentieth Anniversary Patrimony
Vacheron first launched its Patrimony assortment again in 2004, and it grew to become an prompt traditional. The gathering absolutely epitomizes the quintessential costume watch, whether or not rendered in platinum or different valuable metals. With 2024 marking the monumental twentieth anniversary of the beloved line, Vacheron has launched a slew of recent variants. At Watches & Wonders, we noticed two new additions to the road together with one with extremely accessible candy spot sizing at 39 mm with simply 7.7 mm thickness in addition to a extra difficult model providing a moon part complication and retrograde date. This month, the Maison continues the twentieth anniversary celebration with a brand new limited edition collaboration with French designer Ora ïto, a Vacheron Constantin “One among Not Many” expertise.
$35,300
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Hublot Basic Fusion Takashi Murakami Black Ceramic Rainbow
Over time, Japanese modern artist Takashi Murakami has collaborated with each sort of brand name beneath the solar from sneakers to Uno cards. Again in 2021, he lastly put his smiling flower design on a Swiss watch for the first time, teaming up with Hublot. Since then, the duo has continued to create a slew of co-designed timepieces, from a tourbillon version for the bi-annual Solely Watch public sale to at least one made entirely of sapphire. Now, the pair has unveiled its thirteenth and last distinctive piece together with matching NFT artworks to be auctioned at Phillips “TOKI: Watch Public sale” on November 22. In a full circle second, the Hublot Basic Fusion Takashi Murakami Black Ceramic Rainbow combines the 45 mm black ceramic case of the first-ever Hublot X Takashi Murakami Basic Fusion collection with the rainbow petals of the Sapphire Rainbow version, incorporating 384 gem stones onto the petals to type an ideal shade gradient with various kinds of rubies, sapphires, amethysts, tsavorites and topaz stones.
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Grasp Extremely-Skinny Date Blue Grey Dial
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s prowess in skinny calibers has been on the model’s core because it’s early days. In 2008, the Maison launched the Grasp assortment to showcase its capabilities in terms of traditional issues. 4 years later in 2012, they added the Master Ultra-Thin to the lineup, upping the ante with difficult timepieces that keep the slim profile of a costume watch whereas providing the identical advanced performance the Grasp line was identified for. Earlier in 2024, we noticed the introduction of the mannequin throughout the assortment providing a brand new dial and upgraded motion boasting almost double the facility reserve with out altering the scale and thickness of the motion. Now, the model goes again to fundamentals with a brand new colorway in the usual date model of the enduring mannequin that includes a good-looking blue grey dial.
$9,550
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Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads
Czapek traces its roots again to 1845, when Francois Czapek based his namesake model. Revived in 2015, it took lower than a decade for the corporate to reestablished itself within the business due to its mix of conventional horological craft with trendy motion structure. By 2018, the Maison had launched its third mannequin and first chronograph, the Faubourg de Cracovie. The watch was notably powered by Vaucher’s refined high-frequency column-wheel motion and featured an atypical design in comparison with most chronographs with a guilloche dial. With the most recent iteration of the Faubourg de Cracovie, Czapek offers the mannequin a barely sportier really feel with a Crossroads guilloche sample framed by a daring tachymeter scale across the periphery.
CHF 36,000 (roughly $41,500)
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TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna
TAG Heuer’s Carrera has turn out to be an icon ever since its preliminary launch in 1963. The beloved mannequin has taken numerous kinds from collaborations with Porsche to a bright and bold pink version. By means of every iteration one factor has remained true for the mannequin: its deep ties to racing. The famed race automobile driver Ayrton Senna was one in all many well-known wearers to sport the legendary mannequin over time, and now, forward of the brand new Netflix collection known as Senna premiering in November that stars TAG Heuer ambassador, Gabriel Leone, the model has created one thing particular. That is the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna. This mannequin options a variety of tributes to the racer. It incorporates a carbon bezel, inscribed with “Senna” and a tachymeter scale reaching as much as 400 km/h, symbolizing the pace and precision that outlined Senna’s profession. The 9 o’clock subdial prominently options Senna’s branding, whereas the counter seems in a daring yellow, akin to the one of many Senna brand. Turning the watch over, the caseback reveals an iconic picture of Senna together with his helmet, offered by the SennaBrand.
CHF 37,000 (roughly $42,645)
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Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech
The historical past of Panerai’s Radiomir traces again to 1916 when the model first filed the patent for the luminescent radium-based substance. It might take one other couple many years for the model to create the primary prototypes using the glowing materials in a brand new assortment aptly named Radiomir. Ultimately, in mild of the risks of radium, Panerai revamped its lume with a brand new materials known as Luminor. Nonetheless, the Radiomir assortment has remained a pillar of the model’s catalog. The road has largely remained true to its dive and power watch roots with an outsized utilitarian building. But, there have been some iterations over time which are a bit extra elevated, like the most recent addition: the Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech. Because the identify suggests, the spotlight of this variant is its gold construct. As well as, it boasts an computerized mechanical motion that took over 5 years to develop with a high-complication section permitting for changes to the day, date, month, and bissextile year all by way of the crown.
$46,200
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Chopard L.U.C Full Strike ‘Dia de los Muertos’
For the previous a number of years, Chopard has wowed us with its yearly launch of timepieces honoring Día de los Muertos (the Day of the Lifeless). On every event, the Swiss watchmaker has discovered a brand new and modern solution to incorporate the enduring Calavera cranium image into its designs. This 12 months isn’t any totally different. With the vacation on the horizon, Chopard has simply unveiled the L.U.C Full Strike ‘Dia de los Muertos.’ The newest Day of the Dead model incorporates a hand-engraved moral 18-karat yellow gold case framing the enduring dial with a colourful Calatrava cranium rendered in miniature stone marquetry. The watch is equal components type and performance with Chopard’s patented monobloc sapphire gong, which integrates the gongs and resonance chamber right into a single sapphire crystal, appearing as a resonator and producing a transparent sound just like a fork hitting a glass.